Hello from the upstairs lounge of my hostel. I haven't been able to post much due to a sketch internet connection, but no fear, I'll be updating more normally soon. 

I'm starting to adjust and even feel an affinity for the idiosyncrasies of Argentine culture.

First of all, there is the bus system. I recently became acquainted with the BA bus network, thanks to tips from two of the three people I know in the city. My friends Susanna and Josh instructed me to take buses because they are a) often safer than the taxis and b) nominally less crowded than the subte, or subway. This is not difficult, since the subte usually feels like a pressure cooker.

Once I picked up a Guia "T," a booklet of all the local subte and bus lines, I thought I was good to go. Then I learned how I would have to pay for each ride. Using coins - and coins only.

The problem, according to Josh - who has been in BA a whole three weeks longer and who is therefore infinitely more knowledgeable - is that city is in a bit of coin shortage. 

Finding change anywhere in the city is quite difficult, and I've already endured the glare of several grocery store clerks after informing them I didn't have any "monedas" (coins). Basically, the shortage has become so ridiculous that monedas are now worth more than their stated value, because everyone in BA needs to use the bus, and the buses only take coins.

According to Josh - again, the expert here - this little shortage has spurred an underground market for coins and a little Moneda Mafia (my term, not his) that sells the coins back to the banks at a higher price.  This is so ridiculous sounding that I believe it.

While this system may seem shockingly inefficient - and I'm sure says mountains about the economy - there something, I don't know, endearing? about it.

And then of course, there's the accent, more on that later.

An update on how things are going: My friends and are checking out apartments and have already made friends with at least one overly pushy realtor (and also one who is the Argentine clone of our realtor from our 696 house - Aynnie I thought you would like that). We're anxious to move on from our hostel, which despite its hot showers and dreadlocked tenants, is starting to lose its charm.

Chau for now ! (Err, that's "ciao" spelled in Argentine).

Besitos,

Julie

PS. Sorry my skype connection and email responses have been so spotty - like I said, bad internet. Que hablemos pronto!